The Chop Shop: DIY Tubeless Rim Conversion

Although I ride a cruiser, I don’t believe that a bike cant turn, as such, I converted my rear rim to accept 17 inch superbike tyres.

The problem is because my powertrain is shaft driven, I could not get sports rims from donor bikes. So we converted the spoked rim with custom spokes.

The problem is, changing a rear tube every time there is a flat is very costly and tedious.

After some research, I figured out how to do this. Here is my guide should you wish to try it on your own bike

Things Needed:

Brake Cleaner

Loctite

Superglue

Silicone Glue (or super strong liquid nails)

Duct tape

Elbow Grease

A friend / shop that will agree to remove and install your tyre several times.

Tubeless tyre valve

Before you begin, please note the following:

1. I don’t recommend doing the front tyre for if it fails in the back you can still save your ass with some skill you may or may not have

2. This is a minimum 3 day job and takes patience, if you cannot wait, don’t do it.

3. I do not claim responsibility nor warrant for any damages you may cause to your bike yourself or your ego. Do this at your own risk

Step 1:

Remove the tyre

(this has been covered for dragstars in http://madchopshop.blogspot.com/2014/11/how-to-remove-dragstar-rear-tyre.html)

Step 2:

Remove the wheel (this is where your friend/shop comes in)

Step 3:

Clean your wheel with a cloth then spray a crapload of brake cleaner then wipe it off.

Do this at least 4 times.

We do not use water because it doesnt dry well

Step 4:

This is your last chance to adjust your spokes.

Step 5:

Apply Loctite on all your spokes and leave to dry for 30 minutes

Step 6:

Apply superglue to close up the gaps the Loctite missed.

Step 7:

Use the silicone/liquid nails to cover the spoke nipples.

Cover them in a spiral formation all the way to the top of the nipple and do not be stingy on the glue.

Step 8:

While the silicone glue is still wet, cover the spoke nipples with duct tape.

Step 9:

Gently rub the globs of glue down while making sure the duct tape is securely on the rim.

Step 10:

Leave to dry in room temperature for AT LEAST 24 HOURS.

I can guarantee it will not dry by then but if by some miracle it does, proceed to the next step

Step 11:

CUT a hole in the duct tape where the air valve is supposed to go.

DO NOT puncture a hole, it may cause issues when pumping air.

Step 12:

Install the air valve.

Step 13:

Install the tyre, inflate it and test for leaks.

Step 14:

Weight test it.

This means install the tyre on your bike and leave it for 24 hours and check the air pressure.

Step 15:

Go riding.

Ride around like you normally would and check the air pressure at the end of the day.

In Case Of Leaks:

1. Identify the leak.

2. Fully deflate the tyre

3. Superglue the area that is leaking

4. Put a thick layer of silicone glue.

5. Check for leaks again. repeat if necessary.

1. Deflate tyre

2. Buy tyre sealant

3. Pump into tyre

4. Fill up air

5. Rotate tyre continuously slowly for 5 minutes

6. Test for leaks.

Note:

I am personally still testing this conversion. Will update more if I encounter anything

Also, a small leak of 1 or 2 psi a day is acceptable. I have the same problem with my tubed front wheel and I cant even find the leak anywhere… just air up every once a week.