One Week Chain Replacement

A week ago, my friend Irwan (who has recently been my new boss) had issues with his bike. I was made aware of this by one of my friends that the poor guy had to push his bike with a broken chain all the way to the office. The thing about this is that the location of my office (cyberjaya) did not have a bike shop ANYWHERE. In fact, this large place (a size of a small township) even only had one petrol kiosk.

Straight away I jumped up and offered to help fix his chain. I offered because this was the guy whom; at the time he was an agent just like me offered his bike for months while my car was being fixed with no requests except to take care of it.

Anyway, the following day, I told him to bring the sprockets and chain so that I can fix it up for him. In the evening, we went down to fix his bike. Only to realize that 1, his bike didn't have a double stand and 2, I didn't have a big enough wrench.

Day 2, I brought my big X wrench and a car jack and thought, okay, let’s get it on! I removed the sprocket only to realize that the metal retainer plate was the wrong size. So I decided to try to slide on the chain onto the old sprockets. It was then I found out that the Kawasaki original parts were different from the after market chains and sprocket sets we could get here. The difference was in the length of the gap, the chain and sprockets had a slightly further gap then the after market ones. So the chains couldn't fit on to the sprockets.

Day 3, my friend had forgotten to get the retainer plate but I had brought a grinder and things to remove the broken chain link and maybe try to get the chain to work on the sprocket so he can get to the shop. After 2 hours of hammering and grinding at the chain, it was apparent why the original parts were so expensive. That was quality steel right there. Unhappy, I packed up and brought the chain home with me seeing how it was a weekend and I could work with my stuff in my house.

Day 4 was a day of rest for me since it was a Saturday, then day 5 came along and I had been able to remove the chain with heavy machinery and elbow grease. I had then let the chain sit in a tub of wd40 to refurbish it and it worked out quite well.

Day 6 came along and with the help of another friend, we had tried to attach the old chain back into the bike. It was then that we had found a gruesome reality. The chain being made of such tough material had been lodged between the sprocket and the swing arm of the bike while it was moving.  Before being able to snap the chain off, the chain had damaged the inner part of the swing arm to the point that it was totally crumpled. It had just so happened that it was in the way of the wheel alignment system so we couldn't push the swing arm all the way back to get the chain connected.

Day 7: this was the last straw, I had brought everything including a huge hammer to try to fix the crumple zone. We had also bought a retainer plate each and a spare chain just in case. We proceeded to change the front sprocket and slowly changed the rear one as the chain had eaten up all the nuts. Successfully removing the nuts, we had no choice but to remove one bolt from the sprocket set as it was totally chewed up. We spent quite some time hammering the alignment slider in to try to uncrumple the place but we didn't get much success. Yet after all our efforts, we had finally installed the chain. Though it was super tight, it was workable. Tired but happy, all of us yelled out in joy. One of my friends who had helped had also given me a lesson in old school chain link removal (not workable for original parts).

Never have I ever been so challenged by a string of mishaps that we had discovered. But in the end, because I didn't want to quit and had friends who supported and had faith in me, we prevailed… in the One Week Chain Replacement.

By Vy

Happenings and shit

 Well, quite some time has passed and I haven’t updated much of anything.

What’s been going on is that after I had finished doing up the indicator lights, the bike was in the shop a lot trying very hard to get the carb tuned up properly. Days became weeks, weeks became months and before you knew it, I was driving around more then I was riding. It started getting annoying…

One day, I decided to gather some pictures of my bike and put it up for sale just to see what happened. A lot of people were against it, but some key people I listen to thought it was a good idea as it was becoming more of an ornament then a bike to ride on.

The same day I had many many people contacting me to view and offering to buy the bike off me. After much discussion, I had spoken to this kid who really really wanted it. Only thing I didn’t like was that the little moron was haggling like my bike was something in a flea market. After calling his bluff, the kid paid up and took the bike.

Well, haven’t seen it since… quite missed it but I guess it’s time to just let it go. Now, I'm just waiting to get my hands on another bike, but that will be another story.

Goodbye Bad Wolf

By Vy

Custom Indicator Lights

 After running the wires through the frame for my indicators, I had finally figured out what I wanted to use for an indicator light. After thinking about it, I have finally decided to use car fender lights.

Here is how to do it:

Things needed:

- Fender light

- Hammer

- Pen Knife

- Flat head screwdriver.

- You may replace the screwdriver if you have any woodwork tools

Steps:

1. Remove the bulb from the fender light

2. Use the pen knife and start cutting the side of the light at the joint until there is a big groove in it.

3. Put the flat head screwdriver at the corner of the fender light and lightly hammer the screwdriver in.

4. Trail the screwdriver down the side of the light until the light seperates.

5. Screw in or glue on the rubber base of the fender light on the bike. This will be the new base.

6. Wire up an LED strip onto the lead of the indicator and use acrylic silicone tape or strong clear double sided tape to tape the strip to the fender light case.

7. The rubber base has a groove in it so if you mount it correctly, it will hook on to the light that was separated and will never come off unless you remove it.

Here is the view of the indicator light... subtle and doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. Just the way i like it.

Decided to make the front ones out of it too. I made the bracket out of metal strip that has holes in it. (dont know what its called here) so i can adjust the angle of the light. Its held down with nuts and bolts so its easy to adjust.

Close up of the light i made for the front.

By Vy

In Frame Cabling

I have been in the process of reassembling the Bad Wolf for some months now, I have been so busy tied up at my day job and spending family time I don’t really get around to doing much with it.

The other day I decided that even though I haven’t gotten the parts I needed for my bike (the rear indicator light and front indicator light), I might as well used that spare time to make things look slightly better. So, I had thought of trying a little in fame wiring. So, here’s what you need:

 

1. Wire (duh)

 

2. High Powered Drill

 

3. (At Least) 2 drill bits of the same size

 

4. Safety Wire (also known as fencing wire)

 

5. Wire Tape

 

6. WD40

7. Safety Gear (if you dont know what it looks like, dont start the project)

(LET THE NAGGING BEGIN)

Before we start, I just want to explain a few things in the list.

1. Safety Gear: ALWAYS wear gloves and eye protection when dealing with things that chips metal around. If you want to be macho, then don’t wear safety sleeves, but take it from me, shit somehow goes into your eyes no matter WHAT brand of sunglasses you wear.

2. I said AT LEAST 2 drill bits because I broke 2 and the other one almost snapped too.

3. Don’t bother with the portable drills, its not good enough. Remember, you are drilling into a chassis, unless you bought it from an idiot who doesn’t know bikes, you will be drilling into some tough metal.

4. WD40. There are 2 ways to kill a drill bit. One is to break it (which will happen in this instance) two is to burn the tip. Once this happens, the bit is considered useless. Hence the WD40

(And now… the real)Guide:

1. Pick a spot. In my case, I was running the indicator leads from the middle under the seat to the rear fenders. The original position was under the fenders to a plastic part at the end of the mud guard but I tossed that out years ago. The side of my bike has 2 steel bars that look like crap but are there to hold the fenders. I removed the plastic crap that was the cover (sometimes I wonder why I did that) and there are some holes there so I can fit the indicator there. I selected a spot closest to the inside/near the seat so very little wire will be exposed.

2. Drilling: people often think that drilling means taking a drill and start poking at the spot you want. Usually (especially with a high powered drill), its not that simple. And if you think the drill bit wont break, you are so wrong. A high powered drill when moving fast wobbles. Plus the fact that you are holding it while pushing and trying to keep it straight.

Once you have found the spot you want, drill straight (90 degrees) into the frame, constantly applying pulsing pressure, spraying wd40 on it (so the bit doesn’t burn out.). every minute or so, remove the bit and check on the progress, if you feel you are reaching the end, slow down and ease up on the pressure, this is where you make or break (literally) your drill bit.

When that is done, don’t celebrate yet, you are only halfway there. Angle your drill on the hole as much as you can to the direction of where you want the wire to go and start drilling again. Again, follow the same instructions on drilling as above. This is to make your life easier when threading the wire because although the websites all say “oh all you need is to thread the safety wire or string through, tie it to the wire and pull” is bullshit. Like in my case, the space is so limited, if I get the safety wire though, and tie/tape the lead and pull, its too tight.

2. Once the drilling is done, clean up the hole and spray it with a can of paint with the same colour. (be sure to mask the rest of the area). This will stop rust from developing and causing your frame to go to shit and disintegrate when you hit a pot hole. Thread the lead through and leave a lot of access on the end where it comes out.

If you have enough room in the frame, use the safety wire as thread and keep moving all the way through. This method is good if you have very flimsy leads as stiffness helps make it easier to thread.

3. When done, use the wire tape to tape up the access wires near the hole you drill as it will chafe unprotected wires.

4. Reinstall the fender and VIOLA! All done.

NOTE: this is a very very unnoticeable mod to your bike, if you think its going to make a big difference, you will be very wrong. This is generally a mod for personal satisfaction and meant for people who like a cleaner look.

By Vy

For Virago Users

hey guys, found this link... for those of you who ride viragoes:
http://viragotech.com/

btw, i'm looking for tips and advice on virago 535 modifications for engines i.e. rebores and things like that, if anyone has any tips, please leave a comment.

By Vy

Ways to stretch:

Hello all, been doing some research, heres a short lesson in frame stretching:

Figure 2.8

Link: Chopperhandbook

By Vy

Kite Tank

Finally, after making several bite sized duplicates of the kite tank, I had taken the measurements and ensured that everything is correctly done so it can be made properly and not by eye.

Yesterday I had taken the time to buy thick mounting board and also thin cardboard to start my life sized replica. It took me a total of 4 hours to finish correcting the blow up ratios and calculations. Made the guide piece for making the curves of the main kite and completed cutting out the template.

After which, I had transferred the templates onto the mounting board and started cutting everything up.

After a log of mounting with sticky tape, I finished it off and started making the front plate. It would seem my calculations had worked out just fine. Being 4 am, I was too tired to actually finish the bottom plate.

Well, the length of the tank is 63cm. a little wide in the front but I like it. Now, to make sure the frame is the way I want it.

 

 

By Vy

Tanks for everything

I’ve been very busy living life as a normal dude lately I havent been updating the blog. So sorry for ignoring all the updates.

But while living life as a normal guy is goin on, it doesn’t mean I havent been doing any research on bikes or anything. The days the shop is open on Sundays, I try to make it (to my friends shop) working there doing whatever I can from dismantling bikes to grinding stuff. I havent had much time at all to weld the scrap metal I steal from my friends. In fact, its been at least  3 weeks since I touched the welder. Oh how I miss it…

Recently bought a book called “Art  Of The Chopper”. I call it the bible. Has a lot of interesting things and views from famous bike builders in US. I try to read as much as I can every day. Stole some designs of rockers and also views on what the biking scene is really about. I would say, a lot of them have many opposing ideas of how bike builders are like.  What I did realize about them is that NONE of them call themselves “one percenters” and things like that.  And that humble way is what I really respect.

Anyway, recently, I was sketching frames that I wanted to build for my next bike. I fell in love with a stretched high frame with a curved backbone. So I had decided to stick to that. Also, I had been in contact with several people about rim sizes and many other interesting things.

Just last week as I was having issues sleeping, I got around watching the biker buildoff which I had downloaded. Randomly clicking it, I didn’t realize that that single random episode I clicked on had changed the choice if tanks that I wanted. It was a battle between Kevin Alsop from BigBear and Ivy Trosclair of Metry Custom Cycles. Before I had watched that, I had chosen a stretched teardrop tank for my bike. But that soon changed. I was watching Kevin build a tank out of medium steel. Apparently, thicker than normal sheet metal and he had refused to hammer it or use an english wheel as he said it would thin out the sheet metal thus causing integrity issues. “the man had a point” I thought to myself. Seeing how (once again) I will be using a rigid frame (if it aint rigid, it aint a chopper), all the rattling from the engine and the road will kill some parts (look at my battery terminal… snapped off).  Kevin then continued to make a kite tank (slightly similar to a coffin tank, but with more curves to it.). Now, it is famously known as the “Athena tank”. Instantly falling in love with it, I did more research on it but couldn’t find much info. Thus I downloaded as many pictures as I could find and stared at them for at least an hour. Once the way it look got burnt into my mind, I drew out templates on anything I could find… in this case, name cards I didn’t want. I kept it till I went home from work (because the damn company doesn’t provide us with scissors) and started snipping.

Today, I had recreated one (because I get attached to my prototypes), filled the gap in the front of the tank (I was having an issue where by the time I matched it all together, I needed to make a plate to patch up the hole), cut it all down to design it again so the front plate can be made as one properly made piece. After 3 hours, I had done it! But, on the way back, I thought of improvements that could be done.

I will be making a life sized replica soon and will upload a picture of it soon.

p.s. sorry if there are even less pictures now, one of those days I threw a fit and my phone broke into 4 pieces.

By Vy

Bzzzttt bzzttt

Well, ever since the Bad Wolf came out, BDC had been closed down to make way for my new home. its been some time now and we have happily moved in and are slowly settling down.

BUT, by no means does this mean that BDC will no longer be making bikes. In reality, far from it.

I have barely been riding the Bad Wolf and already im getting all sorts of ideas.. before I can even begin chopping the Bad Wolf again, we are in the process of planning and saving up for a new yet to be named bike. This time, it will be bigger and badder then ever. And in more ways then one.

The capacity will be much larger and the frame too. However, the design will be a true chopper. No fancy stuff like flamer kits and undercarriage lights. It will only have all the essentials the bike will need like headlamps, tail lamps, horn and indicator.

Anyway, lately I had taken a part time job at a friends place to learn basic welding techniques and wiring as well. Although he is using a MIG, still I am sure i can learn a thing or two.

Last weekend, the LadyBoss had agreed to get an ARC welder so I can do my own welding. before this, we were looking around and wondering what welder to buy and if I should even bother getting one.

We ended up deciding on an ARC welder because then I wouldn't have to buy the inert gas (which isnt easy to find). We were down to 2 types of ARC welders, the AC and Inverter types.
Here is what I found out:

Inverter Type (DC)
Pros:
- easy to move around if you have to move all over the place
- very light

Cons:
- very expensive
- heats up very quickly
- not good for long term welding (like for big projects)

AC Arc Welder (oil cooled)
Pros:
- oil cooled for long usage
- able to use AC and DC rods
- quite cheap

Cons:
- Heavy as hell and not easy to move around
- Your're screwed if it leaks.

After talking to Eelman, Joe and afew other friends, I had decided to go for the AC ARC welder. just bought it but I haven't had the time to test it out yet. I was too busy making a skateboard for it so I can move it around. Plus, I bought a longer cable so I can get to tight spots easier.




By Vy

Frame

As usual, no one really posts useful information about frames.

Doing my research, I found abit about it.

I am stealing this information from Chopperweb. so please click on it to see more info and to support them

Figure 1 illustrates the primary chassis components of a typical V-Twin rigid frame that consists of the following primary elements:

1. Steering head. Also called the stem head, steering neck or headstock.
2. Frame Backbone. Sometimes called the Top-tube.
3. Seat post.
4. Backbone or Top Tube brace.
5. Wishbones. One left and one right. Also called the upper rear wishbones.
6. Wishbone cross member. Also called the upper fender mount.
7. Side tubes. Sometimes called the side rails, bottom rails or lower tubes.
8. Seat post cross member.
9. Rear transmission mount/cross member.
10. Axle plates or side plates.
11. Front tubes or Down tubes which extend into the bottom rails.
12. Front transmission mount.
13. Rear motor mount.
14. Front motor mount.
15. Motor top mount.

By Vy