Monday, April 20, 2015

Multifunction Gauge Install

Multifunction Gauge Install

I bought this multifunction gauge for 2 reasons:
1.       Because I needed an tacho on my bike
2.       Because the position of the speedo is way too far behind so I had to tilt down to look at it.. which was risky
Well, because of the instructions provided, a lot of information was missing and took me a long time to figure out. For example, the guide shows you a calculation for the speedometer but the example calculation and the result doesn’t match. I found that the calculations are actually for the circumference of the rim you are using. It also doesn’t tell you how many magnets are needed or where on your disk you are supposed to mount it. I will share all this details as well. Otherwise, the installation was quite straight forward.

This installation is a guide for the XVS650 but should more or less apply to any other bike. Also, my method of installation is to ensure the oem stuff still works should you need to use it (my friends call it the OCD method).

I won’t be going into detail in how to remove things or splice wires as this job is already quite lengthy and should be done by people who already more or less know how to do basic stuff.

Things this multifunction gauge can do:
1.       Tachometer
2.       Speedometer
3.       Neutral  Light
4.       Turn Signal Indicator
5.       Odometer
6.       Trip meter
7.       High Beam indicator
8.       Low Beam indicator (not used)
9.       Gear Indicator (not used)
10.   Fuel Gauge (not used)
11.   Some sorta battery indicator.

Wires To identify on the Dragstar
1.       Left and right turn signal live wires
2.       Meter light (Dark Blue)
3.       Neutral
4.       Neutral indicator (Sky Blue) *must be a ground signal*
5.       High beam indicator (Yellow)
6.       Ignition Coil Pulse Signal (orange if it is the rear coil)

What you need to get:
1.       Multifunction Meter (
2.       Instructions
3.       Wiring Diagram for your bike (Dragstar Wiring Diagram)
4.       Scissors
5.       Wire stripper/cutter
6.       LOADS OF WIRE
7.       Masking tape
8.       Wire tubing
9.       Electrical tape
1.       Multimeter
2.       Shrink wrap
3.       High amp wire
4.       Med to low amp wire connector (Image if you don’t know what it looks like)

What to do:

Step 1: Preparation
1.       Check on the functions you need to use
2.       Identify the locations of the connectors
3.       Identify the colors and locations of your cable beforehand.
4.       Identify a mounting position

Step 2: Lift/Remove tank.
1.       Many people don’t believe in doing this but I feel it makes your life easier.
2.       I removed the rear screws and jacked the  rear up because the rest was rather easily accessible.

Step 3: Remove the original cluster.
1.       Disconnect your existing gauge from your bike, most of the wires you need will be here.
2.       Loosely mount your new gauge at the position you want.

Step 4: Wire Management
1.       Once you have identified the amount of wires you will need, measure the distance of all the wires from the source to your gauge.
2.       Ensure there is a little slack
3.       Using the higher amp wires, slide them into the socket and label all of them
4.       Wrap the slotted wires and socket together so that they don’t move EVER. *redneck engineering.. but it works especially on a Sunday when you can’t buy socket pins*

Step 5: RPM Source Signal
1.       There are practically little to no documentation on how to get a stable RPM signal.
2.       Suggested ways:
a.       Connect it to the negative terminal of the coil
b.      Wrap a wire around the live ignition wire.
c.       Look for the pulse signal from the ECU to the coils.
3.       Of all of the above, the last option was the most stable connection.

1.       I don’t like taking risks, so take the time to test everything one at a time.
2.       Connect a long cable (so you can move around) to the “battery +” and “power+” socket (just splice each lead from the sockets to 1 source)
3.       Connect another long wire for the negative
4.       Connect both + and – to the battery.
5.       Get a loose cable and poke it to the relevant socket then the other end to the relevant signal wire.
Step 7: Speedometer
1.       Connect the speed sensor to the socket of the gauge.
2.       Note: the sensor is polarized. NEVER touch the magnet to the speed sensor.
3.       With the gauge on, swipe the magnet past the sensor twice quickly, you will get a number on the speedometer.
4.       If it doesn’t work, turn the magnet around and try again.
5.       If that doesn’t work, try flipping the terminals on the socket. It comes with 3 wires. Leave the middle one alone; just swap the far left and far right one around.
6.       If it still doesn’t work, try a stronger magnet.
Installation: (this is important)
1.       There MUST be 2 magnets for this to work
2.       The magnets provided is meant to replace the bolts that hold the disk down. (the logic is that 2 of 6 screws are fine.
3.       If you have less than 6 bolts don’t do this. Instead, buy neodymium pinhole magnets (you can buy these in daiso)
4.       Test the magnets polarity against the sensor again to determine the polarity and mark it down.
5.       Make a bracket to mount the sensor (get creative, I used cable ties and an L shaped piece of steel)
6.       Mount the sensor first as closely to the disk as possible and try to get it aligned to the disk retaining bolts as possible.
7.       Mount the magnets to the disk directly opposite each other
8.       Align them so that they pass right below the sensor.
9.       Glue them suckers to the disk

Step 8: Connect everything up!
1.       Splice all the signal wires to the existing socket
2.       Note: the reason we kept the “meter light” is for power. Connect the meter light signal to “battery +” and “power+” socket
3.       Tape it (or heat shrink it) all up
4.       Pull the cables to where the meter needs to be.
5.       Connect the high amp wires to the normal wires using the wire connector (if you are using heat shrink, insert the heat shrink first (duh)
6.       Make sure you connect the speedo cable too (I actually wrapped up and forgot about that.. had to cut everything up again)

Step 9: Wrap everything up
1.       Figure out how to wrap everything up neatly and in to a cute little bundle.
2.       Tighten up everything up.
3.       Either put back the existing gauge for now. You may need it for calibration

Step 10: Calibration
1.       Start your bike and test all the stuff.
2.       Go out for a ride.
3.       Using your existing speedometer or gps check if the new speedometer is faster, slower or on the dot.
4.       If it is not on the dot (or close), do this: (setup mode)
a.       Turn off your key (obviously go to the side)
b.      Press down the function button on the back of the gauge
c.       While pressing, turn on the key
d.      Once the fancy startup thing is done some numbers will appear at the bottom then you can stop pressing the button
e.      Default: 363 12
                                                               i.      363 is the circumference of the wheel (doesn’t matter what it is… its usually wrong)
                                                             ii.      1 (type of fuel gauge: 1 for Yamaha; 5 for others there are no other choices)
                                                            iii.      2 (number of cylinders: 2 for 2 cylinder *duh*; 4 for erm.. 4….. if you have 1 you’re outta luck)
f.        Press and hold the button for 2 seconds till the numbers flash.
g.       Press and release to change the value.
h.      Long press to move to the next value
i.         Go all the way to the end till it stops flashing.
j.        Wait 10 seconds.
k.       Turn off your key, wait for 5 seconds.
l.         Test your bike again

5.       Speedo too high (in case you get confused: your meter shows 40kmh, the speedo shows 60kmh)
a.       Go to the setup mode
b.      Change the first number 1 number down
c.       Test again
d.      Repeat till its close (a few KM different.. i.e. your meter shows 40 the speedo shows 43)
e.      Change go to setup mode and change the second 2 numbers down if the speedo is high and 2 numbers up if the speedo is low.
6.       Speedo too low:
a.       Go to the setup mode
b.      Change the first number 1 number up
c.       Test again
d.      Repeat till its close (a few KM different.. i.e. your meter shows 40 the speedo shows 43)
e.      Change go to setup mode and change the second 2 numbers down if the speedo is high and 2 numbers up if the speedo is low.

 Original Gauge Removed

 Image Of The Gauge


 "Connectors" Using High Amp Wire

 DIY Speed Sensor Bracket

 Mounted Speed Sensor

 Mounted Magnets

 Used High Strength Magnets (Just 5 bucks)

 Spliced Signals

 Routed The New Signal Wires To Where I Want Them

 Loosely Mounted Gauge

 Set Up The Mounting Brackets

 Closeup Of Mounting Brackets

 Completed Install

Gauge Socket Guide

Enjoy your ride!

 By Vy

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