By Vy
Tuesday, February 11, 2020
DIY Gauge Protective Film
Most protective film in the market (here in malaysia) are some low quality thick plastic stuff that doesnt last very long. the price may vary on them too (as of Feb 2020, the price ranges from 15 to 35 MYR). I personally dont enjoy these as they are stiff and not always cut to the correct size. My latest hobby is headlamp/tail lamp wrapping (for cars but I do some bikes too), so I have access to clear vinyl tint that is of much better quality. Please click the vid to figure out how to do this. Its really not that hard (to do the DIY and to click the vid...)
By Vy
By Vy
Saturday, February 1, 2020
DIY License Plate Holder MT/FZ 09
Here's a little guide I made to show you how to remove the rear splash guard and turn it into a small license plate holder by using most of its own parts.
By Vy
DIY Bar End Mirror Install
5 Minutes into bringing the bike home, I started tinkering.
Heres a guide on how to install bar end mirrors
Tools:
Assorted Allen Wrenches
Saw/PVC hose cutter
15mm ID PVC Hose
Loctite
Remove the balancer (it is in itself a giant bolt)
You will need a 15mm ID PVC pipe.. Just very little so, but the bare minimum or ask the hardware store if they can give u scraps
Mine is used but who cares.. I had some lying around
Measure the thickness of the pipe as thick as the clamping part of the mirror
It can be a hair thicker but not too thick
Cut it!!
Here's what it looks like.. It will be a little loose.. But don't worry..
Thread lock everything.. Don't wait to retighten
Hand tighten first.. And locktite the balancer too
Slot on the mirror clamp but don't tighten.. Then slide the pvc sleeve on the end
Screw it in... For the throttle, tighten but adjust the balancer until the throttle isn't sticky
Done product
My New Bike: Envy
Been too long since I last posted. I have since changed
from bobbers to sport bikes. But it was more out of necessity than choice. For a
while, I rode a Ninja 650, but it didn’t last long as it was failing.
3 weeks ago, I just picked up my new bike. A Yamaha MT/FZ
– 09. I call her Envy.
Shes a beast. Just like my R1 Chaos, Envy tries to kill
me every chance I don’t pay attention. Shes a thrill to ride and I still haven’t
gotten the hang of her yet.
Well, here are some pictures to keep you (if there is
still anyone out there) entertained.
p.s. I will be posting as many guides as I can on DIY
stuff for Envy. Some will be in the old school picture format… and some will be
in video format.
Just Came Home
With a cage and a tail bag stolen from my friend.
By Vy
DIY Crash Cage Install
Bought this crash cage from Bikempire Malaysia (you can get this elsewhere too)
Tools:
Size 8 Allen key (as long as you can get)
12mm box
Size 4 Allen key
Loctite
Step 1:
8mm Allen to remove 2 engine mount screws.
Remove one side at a time
Step 2:
Match up the holes with the mount holes and insert provided bolts
Longest bolts provided are for the rear mounts on each side.
Slightly shorter of the 2 shorter bolts is for the left side front mount (so we seem to think)
Shortest bolt to be bolted to the bottom provided rail (hand tighten)
Bolt everything up with Loctite and torque to spec if you have a torque wrench.
If u don't, guesstimate and take consideration that the engine is aluminum. If you don't have a torque wrench or can't guesstimate, stop reading this, and get a shop to help.
Step 3:
Ensure this rail is hand tightened coz if u torque down one side, it's never gonna fit
Step 4:
Loctite the world... I don't believe in bolt ride then bolt... Fucking Loctite it and it will never move
Step 5:
Once both sides are done, tighten the railing at the bottom
Step 6:
Insert the sliders provided. And lock it down with the size 4 Allen.
You may have to drill out the hole if it's clodded with powder coat.
Step 7:
Loctite everything (Again)
Step 8:
Step back and marvel at your greatness!!
By Vy
Sunday, March 5, 2017
Bell Qualifier Legion
Recently got my hands on a Bell Qualifier with the Legion
decals from a friend who has been using it for over a year. Since I had gotten
Chaos (my R1 and yes I haven’t posted anything about that yet at this time), I was
able to really test out my helmets. Realizing the LS2 was kinda bad at speeds
above 140kmh where the helmet pushes back, vibrates and screws with my glasses
so I can’t see, it was a real risk riding with it. As such, I stole my friends
helmet for a few days to see what the differences would be.
Design:
Ever since the AGV Pista came out, everyone loves that
hawkbill design. This isn’t very obvious in the bell helmet but it does have a
slight curve to it. It has a few curves here and there but is more or less
fairly round otherwise.
Ventilation:
It has 4 front facing vents and 2 rear passive vents for
ehaust.
Visor:
This one came with the standard clear visor. Bell claims
it has an anti fog coating on it and visibility is quite clear. It doesn’t skew
the way you see things so, that’s always a plus. The visor has 2 flip
positions, city mode and full open (I may be wrong but I usually aren’t.)
Additional Features:
The helmet comes with speaker pockets and indentation to
support a speaker system at the sides. Read somewhere that there were supposed
to be channels to support comms units but I didn’t see any when I stripped the
liner (I had to because I pass out for 5 seconds every time I put on the helmet
because it STANK!! So I washed it.)
The run down:
Fit:
The size of the helmet was a large, and upon wearing it,
realized it was a perfect fit. It was snug but not tight. It squished your
cheeks but not as badly till it hurt… it felt like having one of those face
huggers from Alien on your face except ur not giving its tail a blow job. Sadly,
I wear glasses full time, I’m as blind as a bat and have photosensitive eyes so
I need my oakleys (actually, all my glasses are oaks and this was a good thing
in this case). Just a brief about my glasses, at night, I wear slightly tinted
monster dogs (night and indoors) and in the day, I wear Oakley Turbines. I say
these are good things because these glasses have very thin stalks and are very
helmet friendly. That said, squeezing my monster dogs into the helmet was a
real pain (no, really, it was really painful). So, if you want a helmet that
fits, either get contacts or get a file to file a channel.
This helmet (here anyway), comes with double d rings, so
if you want to take this to the track, technically you can. if you are one of
those losers (I won’t even say girly types because I know some girls who wear
double d’s – on their helmets you pervs) who need the ratchet system, please don’t
waste your time.
Vents:
The top vent system is easy to get at with a glove but I found
the switch was loose and flicky… so no matter what you did, one side would open
even if you flicked it shut. The front vents were hard to get at with a heavy
glove. All in all, the helmet was very breezy and is a good thing for riders in
my country (Malaysia if you didn’t already know). Riding around on an R1 in
traffic is shit… yes you get some movement at times but with the wrong helmet,
you feel like dying. This helmet did well. Moving at slow but constant speeds,
the helmet with the “city position” on the visor gives you plenty of air so you
don’t feel like you are roasting. Even with the visor fully closed (I know..
wtf was I thinking right?) in slow moving traffic I found there was air
movement, so that was always a plus. Highway riding is a breeze (no really…
there was a real breeze), the helmet channeled air everywhere and you felt cool
and comfy all the way. As you start riding faster, you can feel the rear vent
working as you can slowly start feeling the suction happening at the back of
your head. Even with the head buff on (in malaysia we wear a head buff aka head
sock tube instead of a balaclava)
Aerodynamics:
The issue I had with my LS2 was that at a certain speed,
the helmet vibrates and I cant see and it feels like someone is shaking my head
so badly my glasses go out of place… anything above 140 did that and it became
worse (FYI Malaysian roads only allow a max speed of 110kmh on its fastest
highways… speeds I’m quoting are tests done in a controlled environment, The
Mad Chop Shop does not condone speeding).
On the Bell, the helmet held up quite well at 150 with
just a little push back. Tucking properly eliminates that annoying push back. At
160, the helmet starts to lift from the back but its bearable especially if you
do up the double D’s properly.
Noise:
Being a breezy helmet, it’s obvious the helmet is going
to be noisy, nothing compared to the LS2 though. There was this very annoying
whistle that came from the left side and if I covered the bottom of the helmet
with my left hand, the sound went away. If you don’t like it wear ear plugs (don’t
wear earphones like me.. you need to focus)
Nutshell:
Well, in a nutshell, the helmet was quite good. I was
very impressed. As a rather expensive entry level helmet (by Malaysian standards),
the bell did its job and I would say is worth its money. Im hoping something
can be done by normal 4 eyed dorks (I’m a dork too so I can say this) because I
know for a fact any other glasses would break if they were shoved in to that
helmet (I once broke a 1 week old ray ban before). It’s a good buy and you can
ride with confidence knowing it’s a Bell and it WILL (probably) save your life
one day (or at least will keep your face pretty when you get dismembered –
unless you have a face only a mother could love, then u may be better off with
a screwed face).
Verdict: BUY IT!
The Bucket The Day I Got It
Front Vent
Top Vents
Speaker Pockets
Recess For The Speakers
Passive Vents
Top Vent Close Up
By Vy
Friday, April 22, 2016
SJCam SJ4000 VS Drift Innovation HD720 Low Light Comparison
Took my fav drift 720 out for a spin to prepare for
tomorrow... so i finally got some comparisons done...
- Low light wasn’t too great for both of them(sj4000 and drift innovations hd720P), but the drift could actually "see" more without my headlight on and just the street lamps... the SJCam failed at this one.
- Recording wise I found the drift has more angle of coverage but images look further... the SJCam recordings looked closer... then again... maybe it’s because the SJ sits in front of the chinbar whereas the Drift sits on the side at my ear.
- Headlight on, the Drifts FOV expanded greater but the SJCam had a much more crisp view
- Both cameras shake.. (Duh I’m riding on a lowered bike that barely has any suspension.. not to mention lack of seat cushion) but the SJCam images were slightly less shaky.
- Both cameras had light glare but it seems the Drifts glare was cut down a little.
I have yet to compare the day vids because I haven’t taken
any recent day vids with the Drift.. and i want a controlled environment.. so
that means I have to wait till next week when i work in the afternoon...
I guess the image quality difference (both were recording at
720p coz I don’t find full HD useful) would be different as the drift is a 5mp
camera and the SJCam is a 12mp camera (dunno if that’s how you rate the
difference
6AM ride to work no headlamps on
6AM ride to work headlamps on
By Vy
Wednesday, August 26, 2015
GPS tracker for your vehicle:
Things you will need:
1. Sim
card with free data (doesn’t have to be broadband)
2. Phone
(preferable Samsung because they are rated for the best GPS locking) S3s or
notes are cheap now
3. In
car charger
4. 12v
timer (optional)
5. Where’s
my droid tracking software (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.alienmanfc6.wheresmyandroid&hl=en)
6. Auto
Answer software (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mathalogic.autoanswer&hl=en)
Step 1:
Insert the sim card into the phone and make sure you set
it up to have internet access
Step 2:
Ensure the following settings are done:
1. Silent
and no vibration mode
2. GPS
always turned on
3. Set
the screen lock to pin number
Step 3:
Install the software and configure them:
1. Where’s
My Droid
a. Follow
the setup instructions and be sure to setup an account for the commander
2. Auto
Answer Software
a. Set
to enabled
b. Answer
calls from only starred (ensure you star your own number and a few trusted
friends.)
c. Delay
before answer 2 seconds
d. Force
speakerphone OFF
WHY:
Where’s my droid is a free tracking software that you can
login to your account via the internet or via your phone. The idea is to track
your phone which will be hidden in your vehicle. Its free unless you want to
pay for upgrades which is cool.
Your GPS locking now is smart enough to triangulate your position
via cell towers around you if there is no GPS tracking available at the time
(in door or cloudy). That’s why you must ensure your internet connectivity is
set up correctly.
Samsung devices (especially S3, Note 1 and up) have very
fast GPS locking and lock on to more GPS satellites than other brands.
Auto answer software (this specific one and many others)
are free and allow you to monitor the situation if you suspect your vehicle is
stolen. This is more likely to be used if the device is in a car.
Step 4:
Locate a good place to hide your phone!
It must meet these categories:
1. Dry
place (unless you seal it in a sandwich bag)
2. Not
surrounded by metal (under a gas tank or anything like that) this dramatically
reduces reception.
3. Somewhere
not obvious first place ppl will look:
a. Car:
i.
Inside your dashboard
ii.
Under your seat
iii.
In your glove compartment
iv.
Under the hood
b. Bike:
i.
Under your seat
ii.
Behind your headlamp
iii.
In your saddle bags
Step 5:
Wire shit up
1. Disassemble
the cigarette lighter usb charger.
2. Extend
the red and black wires as long as you need them.
3. Connect
the red to the positive terminal of your battery and the black to the negative
terminal of your battery.
4. Additional:
you may connect a 12v timer if you don’t want to keep juicing your phone for no
reason. Wire the timer to the battery then connect the charger to the positive
and negative terminal to the timer. Suggested charge times would be 2-4 hours
every 12 hour intervals.
Step 6:
Test your stuff
Sms the command to your phone and wait for the location.
Step 7:
Button everything up
Where's My Droid
Auto Answer
Disassembled Charger
Results of Location Search
By Vy
Monday, August 17, 2015
Seat Pressure Sensor
Here’s a simple guide on how to make a pressure sensitive
siren that only goes off if someone sits on your bike
Things needed:
1. Automotive
5 pin relay (30 to 40 amp relay)
2. Wire
3. Spring
4. Microswitch
5. Siren
6. Fuse
7. Wire
tape
What to do:
I will not write up on when to wrap the wire with wire
tape, if you don’t know, you shouldn’t be doing this!
Step 1: Figure out
stuff:
Find out the following:
1. Where
is a key activated positive (check your headlamps or meter light)
2. Where
to mount your siren discreetly.
3. Grounding
Points
4. How
to mount the pressure switch with a spring
Step 2: Hook everything up:
1. Connect
the positive lead of the siren to a fuse (30 amp)
2. Connect
the fuse lead to the positive terminal of your battery
3. Connect
the negative terminal of the siren to connector 87A on the relay
4. Connect
relay terminal 30 to the microswitch and from the microswitch to a good ground
or battery negative terminal
5. Connect
the key activated positive (low amp discharge will be fine) to relay terminal
86
6. Connect
relay terminal 86 to a good ground location or negative battery terminal.
Micro Switch
Spring (an old valve spring or clutch spring)
Automotive Relay
Siren
30 = Ground
87A = Siren Negative Terminal
86 = Key activated positive
85 = negative/ground
By Vy
Roof Boxer V8 Bond
The roof boxer has been around for quite some time. There
have been a lot of talk that the Roof Boxer was the first full convert helmet
ever created while the Shark evoline had taken it and “improved” on it.
I had first come across the Boxer some time ago when it
was called the “Boxer V”. I am unsure of how many instances of the Boxers there
were but I have seen the Boxer, Boxer V and the Boxer V8.
To me, personal protection is a very important thing that
is why I would never go for cheap replicas of anything especially helmets. But seeing
the price of the Boxer V at the time in Malaysia really put me off. Although I had
started oogling at helmets like the Icon Variant, the Boxer was never far from
my mind. Finally, years later, I had tracked down the sole distributor in Malaysia
and purchased the latest variant of the boxer. Enter: the Roof Boxer V8 Bond 2015.
After remouting my camera mount and installing the
speakers into the Boxer, I had finally retired the LS2 transformer to storage
thanking it for its service and protection all these years. That helmet saved
my life before and I will be forever grateful for that.
Today was the first day I had managed to test the Boxer
as I was going to work and hadn’t ridden Pestilence the whole weekend and of
all days my work starts at 9am. Although the helmet was a little lighter than
the LS2, the Boxer felt very sturdy on your head. I began by riding it in Jet
Mode. This meant that the jawline was up and over while the visor was down. With
the new iridium blue visor, the morning sun was no big deal coupled with my day
glasses (in case you all didn’t know I have issues with my eyes where I cannot
see bright lights this day glasses = dark tinted glasses). Wind noise was at
least 50% softer compared to the LS2 in open face mode though it allowed enough
sound to pass through for me to hear traffic. This coupled with my speakers
made the ride feel like I was in a nice limo.
Not going too fast, the helmet did very well with wind
and did not create much wind resistance. One of the biggest shortcomings of the
LS2 was that it had a very big imprint size wise thus causing wind resistance
while riding both in open and full face mode. The odd thing was that even with
the visor up, the resistance to air was kept at a minimal.
Once I hit a small stretch of open highway, I had
converted the helmet to full face mode expecting even less noise from the
already acceptably quite helmet but it would seem that I had made no difference
in the helmet. As many of the other reviewers had mentioned, when the helmet is
in full face mode, there will be a little hole where the “nose” of the jawline
and the visor meet, this causes wind to come in unless you forcefully shove it
shut. I personally see that as a good and bad thing as this allows a lot of air
into the helmet allowing you to breathe well and also stops fogging even when
you are stopped. It especially helps claustrophobic riders like myself from feeling boxed in. and unlike my LS2, upon
converting to full face mode, the helmet does not create a vortex sucking air
from your helmet making it hard to breathe (not sure if I’m alone in this). The
downside about the little gap is that if it rained it would be fun.
Little Gap In the Middle Lets Air In
The vents on the V8 Bond are plentiful. There are 4
stationary reversed vents at the jawline and 2 collapsible vents at the nose
which unfortunately are a little flimsy and seem to prefer to be closed (they
do it themselves!). The top has venturi vents controlled by a flimsy little
slider. When the ports on the top are open, the gap is only about 1 to 1.5mm
gap for both the front and back vents. Surprisingly, the air flow is amazing. When
I started moving from my house I felt a draft on my forehead and thought I did
not position my helmet properly or I had forgotten to lower the visor, but it
was all correct. Even so, the helmet was rather quiet.
Single handed conversion while riding is a little tricky,
maybe because the helmet is still new so the mechanism which is friction
controlled is still tight. I will continue to monitor this point of it and if
needed, will adjust it to work well.
It is too new to say for sure, but overall, it’s an
amazing little helmet which fits well and because my jacket is a straight
collared leather jacket, this shorter profile helmet doesn’t hook to my collar
when I turn my head anymore.
By Vy
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