Multifunction Gauge Install
I bought this multifunction gauge for 2 reasons:
1. Because
I needed an tacho on my bike
2. Because
the position of the speedo is way too far behind so I had to tilt down to look
at it.. which was risky
Well, because of the instructions provided, a lot of information
was missing and took me a long time to figure out. For example, the guide shows
you a calculation for the speedometer but the example calculation and the
result doesn’t match. I found that the calculations are actually for the
circumference of the rim you are using. It also doesn’t tell you how many
magnets are needed or where on your disk you are supposed to mount it. I will
share all this details as well. Otherwise, the installation was quite straight
forward.
This installation is a guide for the XVS650 but should
more or less apply to any other bike. Also, my method of installation is to
ensure the oem stuff still works should you need to use it (my friends call it
the OCD method).
I won’t be going into detail in how to remove things or
splice wires as this job is already quite lengthy and should be done by people
who already more or less know how to do basic stuff.
Things this multifunction gauge can do:
1. Tachometer
2. Speedometer
3. Neutral Light
4. Turn
Signal Indicator
5. Odometer
6. Trip
meter
7. High
Beam indicator
8. Low
Beam indicator (not used)
9. Gear
Indicator (not used)
10. Fuel
Gauge (not used)
11. Some
sorta battery indicator.
Wires To identify on the Dragstar
1. Left
and right turn signal live wires
2. Meter
light (Dark Blue)
3. Neutral
4. Neutral
indicator (Sky Blue) *must be a ground signal*
5. High
beam indicator (Yellow)
6. Ignition
Coil Pulse Signal (orange if it is the rear coil)
What you need to get:
2. Instructions
4. Scissors
5. Wire
stripper/cutter
6. LOADS
OF WIRE
7. Masking
tape
8. Wire
tubing
9. Electrical
tape
Optional:
1. Multimeter
2. Shrink
wrap
3. High
amp wire
What to do:
Step 1: Preparation
1. Check
on the functions you need to use
2. Identify
the locations of the connectors
3. Identify
the colors and locations of your cable beforehand.
4. Identify
a mounting position
Step 2: Lift/Remove tank.
1. Many
people don’t believe in doing this but I feel it makes your life easier.
2. I
removed the rear screws and jacked the
rear up because the rest was rather easily accessible.
Step 3: Remove the original cluster.
1. Disconnect
your existing gauge from your bike, most of the wires you need will be here.
2. Loosely
mount your new gauge at the position you want.
Step 4: Wire Management
1. Once
you have identified the amount of wires you will need, measure the distance of
all the wires from the source to your gauge.
2. Ensure
there is a little slack
3. Using
the higher amp wires, slide them into the socket and label all of them
4. Wrap
the slotted wires and socket together so that they don’t move EVER. *redneck
engineering.. but it works especially on a Sunday when you can’t buy socket
pins*
Step 5: RPM Source Signal
1. There
are practically little to no documentation on how to get a stable RPM signal.
2. Suggested
ways:
a. Connect
it to the negative terminal of the coil
b. Wrap
a wire around the live ignition wire.
c. Look
for the pulse signal from the ECU to the coils.
3. Of
all of the above, the last option was the most stable connection.
Step 6: Test EVERYTHING
1. I
don’t like taking risks, so take the time to test everything one at a time.
2. Connect
a long cable (so you can move around) to the “battery +” and “power+” socket
(just splice each lead from the sockets to 1 source)
3. Connect
another long wire for the negative
4. Connect
both + and – to the battery.
5. Get
a loose cable and poke it to the relevant socket then the other end to the
relevant signal wire.
Step 7: Speedometer
Testing:
1. Connect
the speed sensor to the socket of the gauge.
2. Note:
the sensor is polarized. NEVER touch the magnet to the speed sensor.
3. With
the gauge on, swipe the magnet past the sensor twice quickly, you will get a
number on the speedometer.
4. If
it doesn’t work, turn the magnet around and try again.
5. If
that doesn’t work, try flipping the terminals on the socket. It comes with 3
wires. Leave the middle one alone; just swap the far left and far right one
around.
6. If
it still doesn’t work, try a stronger magnet.
Installation: (this is important)
1. There
MUST be 2 magnets for this to work
2. The
magnets provided is meant to replace the bolts that hold the disk down. (the
logic is that 2 of 6 screws are fine.
3. If
you have less than 6 bolts don’t do this. Instead, buy neodymium pinhole
magnets (you can buy these in daiso)
4. Test
the magnets polarity against the sensor again to determine the polarity and
mark it down.
5. Make
a bracket to mount the sensor (get creative, I used cable ties and an L shaped
piece of steel)
6. Mount
the sensor first as closely to the disk as possible and try to get it aligned
to the disk retaining bolts as possible.
7. Mount
the magnets to the disk directly opposite each other
8. Align
them so that they pass right below the sensor.
9. Glue
them suckers to the disk
Step 8: Connect everything up!
1. Splice
all the signal wires to the existing socket
2. Note:
the reason we kept the “meter light” is for power. Connect the meter light
signal to “battery +” and “power+” socket
3. Tape
it (or heat shrink it) all up
4. Pull
the cables to where the meter needs to be.
5. Connect
the high amp wires to the normal wires using the wire connector (if you are
using heat shrink, insert the heat shrink first (duh)
6. Make
sure you connect the speedo cable too (I actually wrapped up and forgot about
that.. had to cut everything up again)
Step 9: Wrap everything up
1. Figure
out how to wrap everything up neatly and in to a cute little bundle.
2. Tighten
up everything up.
3. Either
put back the existing gauge for now. You may need it for calibration
Step 10: Calibration
1. Start
your bike and test all the stuff.
2. Go
out for a ride.
3. Using
your existing speedometer or gps check if the new speedometer is faster, slower
or on the dot.
4. If
it is not on the dot (or close), do this: (setup mode)
a. Turn
off your key (obviously go to the side)
b. Press
down the function button on the back of the gauge
c. While
pressing, turn on the key
d. Once
the fancy startup thing is done some numbers will appear at the bottom then you
can stop pressing the button
e. Default:
363 12
i.
363 is the circumference of the wheel (doesn’t matter
what it is… its usually wrong)
ii.
1 (type of fuel gauge: 1 for Yamaha; 5 for
others there are no other choices)
iii.
2 (number of cylinders: 2 for 2 cylinder *duh*;
4 for erm.. 4….. if you have 1 you’re outta luck)
f.
Press and hold the button for 2 seconds till the
numbers flash.
g. Press
and release to change the value.
h. Long
press to move to the next value
i.
Go all the way to the end till it stops
flashing.
j.
Wait 10 seconds.
k. Turn
off your key, wait for 5 seconds.
l.
Test your bike again
5. Speedo
too high (in case you get confused: your meter shows 40kmh, the speedo shows
60kmh)
a. Go
to the setup mode
b. Change
the first number 1 number down
c. Test
again
d. Repeat
till its close (a few KM different.. i.e. your meter shows 40 the speedo shows
43)
e. Change
go to setup mode and change the second 2 numbers down if the speedo is high and
2 numbers up if the speedo is low.
6. Speedo
too low:
a. Go
to the setup mode
b. Change
the first number 1 number up
c. Test
again
d. Repeat
till its close (a few KM different.. i.e. your meter shows 40 the speedo shows
43)
e. Change
go to setup mode and change the second 2 numbers down if the speedo is high and
2 numbers up if the speedo is low.
Original Gauge Removed
Image Of The Gauge
Mockup
"Connectors" Using High Amp Wire
DIY Speed Sensor Bracket
Mounted Speed Sensor
Mounted Magnets
Used High Strength Magnets (Just 5 bucks)
Spliced Signals
Routed The New Signal Wires To Where I Want Them
Loosely Mounted Gauge
Set Up The Mounting Brackets
Closeup Of Mounting Brackets
Completed Install
Gauge Socket Guide
Enjoy your ride!
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